Tiretti Bazar: Home-made food sold by Chinese migrants on the streetside (near Poddar Court, Kolkata).


In a nutshell:

Wow way to start a day – outstanding, refreshing & authentic homemade Chinese food at unbelievably low prices.

How to reach there: Take a left (if u r facing Girish park) after crossing Central Metro station (bowbazar) crossing & ask for tiretti bazar.

Meal for 2 – Rs. 60 onwards (breakfast available only)

Short Description – In case u r in a hurry:

As u walk into this sleepy place in the morning (6.30 am to 8.30 am), u come across lines of mini trucks on both sides of the road & groups of street dwellers taking bath at the roadside taps.

as u enter the road to tiretti bazar in the morning

A little beyond u see a glimpse of a market – flowers, vegetables, women’s purses!!! etc & then suddenly large aluminum vessels that stand out oddly amidst these. As u walk towards those vessels, u realize that the people manning those look very different from everyone u see around. Yes, they r Chinese immigrants who have been stayin in Kolkata for decades. They sell home-made food in this market in the morning & do odd jobs during the day. They speak Mandarin, Hindi, Bengali & very good English!!!!

first view of the market

To get the maximum choice in terms of menu, u have 2 reach as early as possible coz 7.30 onwards the good items start getting sold out. As compared to the other days, on Sundays u get the best variety.

The sight of aluminum storage amidst veggie vendors

Outstanding dimsums – pork, chicken, fish, bao buns with pork filling/ chicken fillings , unique & superb fish, chicken & pork balls in soup (clarification – these r balls made out of minced meat – in case u r frowning on the kind of organs that people feed on these days)………………….. these r so good that ur hand starts automatically going towards ur mouth without specific instruction from the brain!!!!……………….result – u r overfed in the morning itself

the awesome dimsums

Some people sell normal momos as well. Some sell home-made sausages that u need to go home & cook. Chinese raw veggies r also sold here – including pokchoy, Chinese spinach etc. Chinese prawn papads etc are also sold here.

Detailed Description – In case u have the time to enjoy reading:

Our first stop to this market is usually the stall of a lady in her late forties who we think gets the best stuff in the market. She hardly smiles & reminds u of a strict English teacher.

This time we went, the lady was not there – I guess the gentleman at the stall was her husband – He smiled a lot though

The smiling husband & the awesome dimsums

The fish dimsums that she sells, r large – little less than the size of a cricket ball !!!!! The dimsums have a thin wrap on the outside & lots of filling within. Superb in taste @ Rs. 10 per piece only. The dimsums r served with a chilli sauce – I never dip my dimsums in the Chilli sauce coz the dimsums r so good as it is.

The chicken & pork dimsums are as excellent as well.

the other vendors

The stall next to this is usually the one who sells momos. These r more maida & less filling – For Rs. 10 for 4 momos, better avoided.

…………….all chini

In the corner of the street there is a garden umbrella attached to a tiny round table. On top of that there r tiny baskets with lots of cutlery (including wooden chopsticks !!!!). Few bottles of sauces r also kept there. This setup is for the fish ball soup. Thin, clear, very tasty & refreshing hot piping soup garnished with herbs & solid hand pounded meatballs in the soup – fish / chicken / pork. Very very tasty. Hand-pounding ensures that they are un-uniform & have a interesting texture.

the cutlery
pork & fish dimsums………
eating below the garden umbrella on the roadside!!!

U can find people selling prawn papads & things like that which u can take home, fry & have. Some people sell home-made sausages.

news of Chinese prawn papads

Unlike some of the other food that I recommend, this food is low fat & hence u do not need to go for that extra cardio the next week.

mandarin chit chat over a cup of tea

The number of Chinese vendors is reducing over the years as their kids seem to be taking up other professions. So, go, get a taste of this unique food before it vanishes from the streets of Kolkata.

It seem that the fabulous market will dissappear post this generation
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11 comments

  1. Just remembered my college days. My friends and I would actually go to this place have our Momos n Thupkas early in the morning, would buy some home-made chilli sauce for our friendly neighbourhood aunties as Mom would be aghast if she knew we were going ‘out’ to eat so early in the morning – all in the pretext of learning French at Alliance Francaise! We would enter St. Xavier’s at 9:30am in the morning all smelling of garlic and stomach packed with Momos.

    The best Momos and Thupkas we ever had – plus within our student budget.

    The other thing that amazed me about the place is how by 8:30am the entire bazaar would disappear and it would transform into an office parking lot. Unbelievable that a few minutes back it was a throbbing street market!

    Request you to visit Peter’s Lane as well for pan fried chilli momos…

  2. Wow wat a lovely post.i wud surely visit this place. But i really felt sad after reading the last line. That this market might dissappear – this market will dissappear post this generation.

    I understand it is obvious that their children are getting educated and wont sell momos after such degrees. But it made me sad. Truth afterall. Just imagine after 5-10 years, we will there used to be tiretti bazaar.

    I hope some of the kids start a good business of aithentic chinese food.

    Thanks for lovely article.

  3. hi…anyone who has already been there or is aware of…has anything been found from this place after the carcass meat trade news from Bengal??

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