Tiretti Bazar: Home-made food sold by Chinese migrants on the streetside (near Poddar Court, Kolkata).


In a nutshell:

Wow way to start a day – outstanding, refreshing & authentic homemade Chinese food at unbelievably low prices.

How to reach there: Take a left (if u r facing Girish park) after crossing Central Metro station (bowbazar) crossing & ask for tiretti bazar.

Meal for 2 – Rs. 60 onwards (breakfast available only)

Short Description – In case u r in a hurry:

As u walk into this sleepy place in the morning (6.30 am to 8.30 am), u come across lines of mini trucks on both sides of the road & groups of street dwellers taking bath at the roadside taps.

as u enter the road to tiretti bazar in the morning

A little beyond u see a glimpse of a market – flowers, vegetables, women’s purses!!! etc & then suddenly large aluminum vessels that stand out oddly amidst these. As u walk towards those vessels, u realize that the people manning those look very different from everyone u see around. Yes, they r Chinese immigrants who have been stayin in Kolkata for decades. They sell home-made food in this market in the morning & do odd jobs during the day. They speak Mandarin, Hindi, Bengali & very good English!!!!

first view of the market

To get the maximum choice in terms of menu, u have 2 reach as early as possible coz 7.30 onwards the good items start getting sold out. As compared to the other days, on Sundays u get the best variety.

The sight of aluminum storage amidst veggie vendors

Outstanding dimsums – pork, chicken, fish, bao buns with pork filling/ chicken fillings , unique & superb fish, chicken & pork balls in soup (clarification – these r balls made out of minced meat – in case u r frowning on the kind of organs that people feed on these days)………………….. these r so good that ur hand starts automatically going towards ur mouth without specific instruction from the brain!!!!……………….result – u r overfed in the morning itself

the awesome dimsums

Some people sell normal momos as well. Some sell home-made sausages that u need to go home & cook. Chinese raw veggies r also sold here – including pokchoy, Chinese spinach etc. Chinese prawn papads etc are also sold here.

Detailed Description – In case u have the time to enjoy reading:

Our first stop to this market is usually the stall of a lady in her late forties who we think gets the best stuff in the market. She hardly smiles & reminds u of a strict English teacher.

This time we went, the lady was not there – I guess the gentleman at the stall was her husband – He smiled a lot though

The smiling husband & the awesome dimsums

The fish dimsums that she sells, r large – little less than the size of a cricket ball !!!!! The dimsums have a thin wrap on the outside & lots of filling within. Superb in taste @ Rs. 10 per piece only. The dimsums r served with a chilli sauce – I never dip my dimsums in the Chilli sauce coz the dimsums r so good as it is.

The chicken & pork dimsums are as excellent as well.

the other vendors

The stall next to this is usually the one who sells momos. These r more maida & less filling – For Rs. 10 for 4 momos, better avoided.

…………….all chini

In the corner of the street there is a garden umbrella attached to a tiny round table. On top of that there r tiny baskets with lots of cutlery (including wooden chopsticks !!!!). Few bottles of sauces r also kept there. This setup is for the fish ball soup. Thin, clear, very tasty & refreshing hot piping soup garnished with herbs & solid hand pounded meatballs in the soup – fish / chicken / pork. Very very tasty. Hand-pounding ensures that they are un-uniform & have a interesting texture.

the cutlery
pork & fish dimsums………
eating below the garden umbrella on the roadside!!!

U can find people selling prawn papads & things like that which u can take home, fry & have. Some people sell home-made sausages.

news of Chinese prawn papads

Unlike some of the other food that I recommend, this food is low fat & hence u do not need to go for that extra cardio the next week.

mandarin chit chat over a cup of tea

The number of Chinese vendors is reducing over the years as their kids seem to be taking up other professions. So, go, get a taste of this unique food before it vanishes from the streets of Kolkata.

It seem that the fabulous market will dissappear post this generation
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8 comments

  1. Just remembered my college days. My friends and I would actually go to this place have our Momos n Thupkas early in the morning, would buy some home-made chilli sauce for our friendly neighbourhood aunties as Mom would be aghast if she knew we were going ‘out’ to eat so early in the morning – all in the pretext of learning French at Alliance Francaise! We would enter St. Xavier’s at 9:30am in the morning all smelling of garlic and stomach packed with Momos.

    The best Momos and Thupkas we ever had – plus within our student budget.

    The other thing that amazed me about the place is how by 8:30am the entire bazaar would disappear and it would transform into an office parking lot. Unbelievable that a few minutes back it was a throbbing street market!

    Request you to visit Peter’s Lane as well for pan fried chilli momos…

  2. Wow wat a lovely post.i wud surely visit this place. But i really felt sad after reading the last line. That this market might dissappear – this market will dissappear post this generation.

    I understand it is obvious that their children are getting educated and wont sell momos after such degrees. But it made me sad. Truth afterall. Just imagine after 5-10 years, we will there used to be tiretti bazaar.

    I hope some of the kids start a good business of aithentic chinese food.

    Thanks for lovely article.

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